Personal Brief
'Create A series of 'Fashion images' that reflect a wider issue. consider how your images could cause controversy and challenge generally accepted values.'
research starting point:
4 'heroin chic' photographers
To begin this brief I wanted to look at fashion photography in the past which had sparked controversy, and after research it became clear that many of these looks or styles which originally shocked people soon after became trends. one in particular was the 'heroin chic' look which was made famous by models such as Kate moss and Jamie King. In the 80s the ideal woman project by fashion magazines were curvery, sun kissed women with a beach swept look about them. In the early 90s a new trend was started which was labled 'herioin chic' this look was very different from that of the 80s and consisted of skinny frames and suken in eyes. attention was no longer paid to the clothing and location and intead it was all about creating a feel of grunge and snap shot type photography. I wanted to research the photographers who had made this heroin chic look so famous and began with davide sorrenti who was famous for descovering
Davide Sorrenti
Born in Naples, Italy, June 9th, 1976, Davide moved with his family to New York after being diagnosed with thalassemia, a hereditary form of amenia which meant that Davide required regular blood transfusions, leaving him appearing several years younger than his actual age.
His personal life is subject to media scandal, and is reflected in his work that of which again a heroin chic style. By his late teens, Davide’s drug fueled images had begun to find editorial success in magazines such as Interview, Detour and Ray Gun. At the peak of his career he was gong out with model Jaime King, who is the subject of many of this photographs. She too was a heroin addict and very much the poster girl for 'heroin chic'. |
Corrine Day
Corinne Day is a British photographer whose influence on the style and perception of photography in the early 1990s has been immense. As a self taught photographer, Day brought a more hard edged documentary look to fashion image making, in which she often included biographical elements. Day is known for forming long and close relationships with many of her sitters (most famously Kate Moss), which have resulted in candid and intimate portraits.
her photography is eye catching and at the time completely original as her subjects are not dolled up to look glamours but stripped down |
Juergen Teller
Juergen Teller is a German fine art and fashion photographer born in 1964. He takes candid shots that have been used in fashion publications all over the world. He moved to London in 1968 to escape military national service. he has the ability to turn raw overexposed shots into commercial fashion images. It is because of this intimacy that he created some of the photographs that would later be referred to when praising or criticising the rise of 'heroin chic'.
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Observational starting point:
CREATE A SET OF IMAGES THAT FOLLOW THE STYLE OF 'HEROIN CHIC'
With this first set of photographs I wanted to emulate the Corrine day style of early 90s, grunge style, To do this I wanted my model to be wearing simple minimal clothing with attention being paid to the expressions on her face and her body language opposed to the background. I wanted to concentrate on creating a feeling for the viewer.
In this photograph the model is slumped against a white and grey wall, on the other side of the photograph there is nothing other than an old rusty drain. she is bleakly starring at the camera with little or no thought on her face and slight sorrow in her eyes. Using Photoshop I made the bags under her eyes darker and her skin paler.
How i created the 'heroin chic' look on photoshop
The model that I used had tanned skin which I wanted to make paler and more translucent on photoshop:
Step 1
Firstly I duplicated the layer
Step 4
Next I changed the blending mode to 'soft light'
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Step 2
Then I aded a new layer on top the the original and duplicate
Step 5
I then clicked on the eraser and erased the white from the photograph expect on the models skin.
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Step 3
I then clicked on the paint bucket tool and, using the colour white clicked on the image
Step 6
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DISPOSABLES
For my next set of pictures I wanted to use a disposable camera to as i felt my last set were too smooth and crisp, I think using the disposable camera will create more of the gritty look I was going for. i much preferred this set of pictures as there was more attention paid to the mood created by the pictures and the actual composition. I tried to catch my models naturally avoiding posing, and the photographs came out with low saturation which i think is effective in adding to the grungy feel i was trying to go for.
Day in the life
I wanted to create the same grainy effect created by disposable cameras. This time I gave a disposable camera to two people who I decided to keep anonymous. I asked them to photograph things they see in their day to day life. I liked this set of photographs as I think they say a lot about the people who took them. Person x's photographs are mostly taken inside which is very represenitive of his lifestyle. The photograph taken of the red car is from his window and is a sight that i personally know very well. This gives these photographs a very personal feel. Person Y has taken most of the photographs outside, which is also a representation of the life this person leads. The fact that this person has chosen not to include the faces of anyone in the photographs suggest that this person is very private. Overall I liked this set of photographs as I felt they were very personal and the grainy effect of the disposables along with the low contrast adds to the anominity I was trying to achieve.
Whilst doing the research for my curatorship task I came across fashion photographer La Chapelle who like Corrine Day uses sexuality in his photographs, and presents women in a certain way in his photography. But these two photographers are complete polar opposites in the type of women they are presenting. For example Corrine Day takes the life out of her photographs with low saturation, simple and run down locations. Her models are typically very skinny and follow the 'heroin chic' trend that was made popular in the 1990s consisting of dark circles round the eyes and simple clothing typically just shirts and vest tops. whereas La Chapelle uses hair, make up, lighting and very over the op and often surreal sets in order to create a fantasy for the viewer where the women is shown as perfect and unrealistic. I think its interesting to look at how the two photographers completely different from each other present women, and what this says about society at the time. Both are quite shocking and have been met with criticism.
'Models In Squalor'
I wanted to experiment with the idea of taking glamour models and putting them in run down places. when editing I wanted to use high saturation in order to create a clear juxtaposition between the grungy run down back round and the tanned skin and vibrant colours the models were wearing. I really like this set of photographs and I like the composition and the non conventional angles which I think worked well. The mixture of up close shots and the different perspectives used meant that i ended up with a variety of photographs, all of which I was very pleased with. One problem with these photographs were that the exposure was too high in some shots. To overcome this I used photoshop to manipulate the photographs. I duplicated the layer, made the exposure high on the bottom layer. I then used the erase tool to rub away parts of the top layer (darker image0 to revel a higher exposure. I did this mainly for the subjects faces a bodies. If I were to shoot these photographs again I would shoot later on in the day when the sun was not so bright, in order to have more shadows and varies of brightness, opposed to the bright glare that most of these photographs have. I defiantly want to develop this idea of glamours models in run down locations, and would like to use photoshop to further highlight the difference between the subject and he location.
hOW I AIRBRUSHED THE PHOTOGRAPHS
Development
To develop this idea further I decided to use photoshop to duplicate the models body in pictures where there were empty spaces. I thought that this may add some drama to the photographs. I used photoshop and the magic wand select tool to multiply the image of the girl. I didn't like this set of photographs so have decided to not pursue this idea.
Models in squalor part 2
MOOD BOARD
For this set of photographs I wanted to develop the idea of having a glamours well dressed model against a grungy run down background, I think the result is an urban take on high fashion looks. I picked this location because of the interesting colors and different shapes this tunnel makes, it also has lots of lighting which was helpful when photographing my subject, especially as I took these photographs at night with almost no natural lighting. One problem with this was that it meant that the background was sometimes blacked out, with only the model being lit. Although this worked for some photographs it meant that the run down location was lost in some photos. Using Photoshop I wanted to make the models features and skin so perfect that she almost looks plastic. I used a range of tools such as the dodge and burn tool to contour the face. The sharpen tool to highlight the eyes. I used the clone tool to neaten up the lips and eyebrows to make them look as artificial as possible. I like this set of photographs as I think the harsh lighting which helped to highlight the model in contrast with the grotty setting of the tunnel really worked. I like the close up photographs where the model is looking directly at the photograph as I feel this draws the audience in.
Pierre et GillesPierre Commoy and Gilles Blanchard are two french artists who work together to create very stylised pieces of work, pierre is the photographer who shoots the original image whilst Gilles who is an artist retouches the photographs with acrylic paint to create the superficial feel of these pictures. their work takes inspiration from popular culture, religion, homosexuality and art culture. with vivid colours their work is very eye catching.
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FASHION/RELIGION
For my next set of images I wanted to use the theme of religion, something thats so well known and yet very controversial. I wanted to use it to influence the inspiration for this set of photographs. . influenced by the composition of Pierre et Gilles I created a set of images that eye catching but are not saying anything that controversial about it as I set in my original brief.
In this photograph the model, who is styled with brightly coloured, aferial clothing is the central focus. With her arms cutting through the lower quarter of the image and her head crooked she is being crucified onto the cross behind her. I wanted it to be obvious that she was representing 'Jesus' as the styling was so much more modern. taking inspiration from Pierre et Gilles I wanted to play around with the background. Adding a mixture of paintings and photographs to my studio portrait to create a complex, vibrant background. I used a lot of pop colours like pink, blue and green to bring vibrance to the picture as the dress and skin tone are lot warmer colours All of which I did using photoshop. I also used photoshop to edit the models face, sharpening her lips so the glitter would be more defined and stand out. I also used the dodge and burn tool to contour the face as I wanted her to look sharp and angular and contouring the cheeks also brings focus to the lips. I think the background in this photograph worked with the model and I was very happy with the editing and
In this photo the model is sat down with her legs out in front of her, the cross by her side.
True religon
Woman's role in society
Throughout my practical response of of the keys themes has always been representation of women, whether its in the media or society I have tried to depict the positive but mostly negative representation of women. I began looking at if the representation of women has changed throughout the years and if their are any patterns to this.
Women through the ages
Throughout my practical response a reoccurring theme has been the representation of women. Whether it be positive or negative, it appears that whatever they display then becomes 'trend' meaning that whatever publications and pop culture decide to make fashionable could have a detrimental effect on the general public. Especially young girls who are vulnerable to manipulation by the industry making them believe that they too must look like the woman on the front page of their favourite magazine. I wanted to research the role fashion magazines and photography had on women and what was deemed acceptable in society. I also wanted to look at how fashion magazines present the 'perfect woman'. I found that although much has changed since the 1920s their is one thing that is present throughout; sex. Although a lot more concealed at the start of the 20th century it is always there, the viewers attraction to the beautiful woman is what sells the clothes.
For my set of photographs I wanted to take aspects of the fashion of each era and use the attitudes and views of women in that decade to influence the poses and actions of the subject. as I began taking the photographs I decided that I wanted two images, one conventional of that time period and one that said something ironically about how women were expected to be at to appear and deemed attractive. although I don't think I have been able to fully carry this out, and if I were to redo it I would use props and maybe a location for each era.
For my set of photographs I wanted to take aspects of the fashion of each era and use the attitudes and views of women in that decade to influence the poses and actions of the subject. as I began taking the photographs I decided that I wanted two images, one conventional of that time period and one that said something ironically about how women were expected to be at to appear and deemed attractive. although I don't think I have been able to fully carry this out, and if I were to redo it I would use props and maybe a location for each era.
1920s
For the 1920s pictures I wanted to capture the high spirits and excitement for women as they drew away from the 1800s, this was now a women who could drink, vote, and not be suffocated by tight corsets and heavy bustles
1930s
The 1930s saw a general maturity in attitudes towards fashion after the liveliness the "roaring Twenties". The Wall Street Crash in 1929 lead into the Great Depression, which effected all aspects of life, including fashion, bringing with it a period of austerity.
1940s
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The 1920s saw the beginning of a new women. I wanted to show this independence and optimism with the styling of the photograph. I think the pastel pinks worked well with the models skin tone and hair. The mid view shot means we can clearly see the models expression which is the main focus of the photo. using the colour range tool in Photoshop I made the background completely white. I used the dodge and burn tool to highlight features on the model and give her hair a slick 1920s look. I think the editing really worked on this era and I was happy with the outcome. |
Fashion through the ages final panorama
The future
For my final set of images for my brief: 'Create A series of 'Fashion images' that reflect a wider issue. consider how your images could cause controversy and challenge generally accepted values.'
I have decided to focus on women in the future and what could happen if we continue to live the way we do. I want to use three models and shoot on location somewhere that is urban and run down. my three girls will be from 3 different dates; the first will be from 2050. The next from 2100 and the last 2150 their complete style and poses which I aim to be melodramatic and controversial. these photographs will voice my personal opinion of whats going to happen to humans and society and I intend for the models to all really say something about the time period.
2050
36 years from now and we are in the height of our deceiving stage, the media has completely taken over brainwashing millions. Yet the public are completely unaware. As a result style and fashion have become a complete show of wealth and being overly eccentric is the new normal. Taking inspiration from the hunger games and the description of the people from the capital, who are blinded by wealth and greed and have no care for how the rest of the world live. That is how I imagine
I have decided to focus on women in the future and what could happen if we continue to live the way we do. I want to use three models and shoot on location somewhere that is urban and run down. my three girls will be from 3 different dates; the first will be from 2050. The next from 2100 and the last 2150 their complete style and poses which I aim to be melodramatic and controversial. these photographs will voice my personal opinion of whats going to happen to humans and society and I intend for the models to all really say something about the time period.
2050
36 years from now and we are in the height of our deceiving stage, the media has completely taken over brainwashing millions. Yet the public are completely unaware. As a result style and fashion have become a complete show of wealth and being overly eccentric is the new normal. Taking inspiration from the hunger games and the description of the people from the capital, who are blinded by wealth and greed and have no care for how the rest of the world live. That is how I imagine
2100
THE DIGITAL AGE
This concept was a develpoment of my 'fashion through the ages' set of photographs. Set in the future I wanted to photograph women of the future. Starting in the digital age and ending in an apocalypse.
Final piece
I decided to use this photograph for my final piece as I thought it was my best piece of work. I think that the colder colours ofblue and white colours of the graffiti go well with the warm colours of the brick wall. The model being central with the graffiti either side also looks good.